Sticky Stuff

White Glue: Weldbond, Crafter's Ultimate

• USE for assembling RAW wood houses, roomboxes, furniture kits, plastic floors, some fabrics, plastic floors
• AVOID using on hardwood flooring or painted wood
• WHY: hardwood may warp if you use water base glue on it; the sheet flooring may de-laminate as well.

Yellow Glue: Elmer's

• We don't recommed Elmers or other yellow glues often. The don't dry clear, and although they hold  well, they are extremely difficult to remove. New glue will not stick well to yellow glue. You may use yellow glue for assembling RAW wood houses or roomboxes.

Solvent Based Glue: Quick Grip, Omni-Stick

• USE on primed and painted woods, including assembly of window & door frames, application of ceiling pediments, crown moulding & baseboard, hardwood flooring, asphalt shingles, die-cut houses (too thin for nails), attaching light fixtures to ceilings or walls, plastic sheets.
• AVOID using on raw wood: the wood will absorb much of the solvent and decrease sticking.
• HINT: To increase bonding, apply to one surface only. The glue is quick drying, but not instant or really fast. You have time to fine-tune the position of the item you're gluing. Set the piece in place, then pull it back for a few seconds to increase tackiness. You can use masking tape or prop sticks to secure the piece in position while the glue dries.
• Acetone (nail polish remover) is a good choice to clean off excess glue, but be careful!

Contact Glues: Contact Cement

• MAY be used on hardwood flooring or siding. Contact glues require application to both surfaces, and just when it appears to by dry, it has an amazing ability to stick to itself! FOREVER! No chance to reposition your floor or siding!
• Personal opinion: it's best left to the professionals!
• AVOID using on anything else!

Hot Glue:

• We use hot glue to temporarily tack windows and trims on display houses so you can see the finished look. It's easily removable with the heat from a hair dryer and a dull knife blade.
• USE for wood shingles: it dries quickly, and shingles will remain in place relatively well if you  use enough glue (but not too much). Excess is removable by heating slightly and scraping.
• AVOID using for anything you expect to be permanent, like assembling the dollhouse!

CA (Cyanoacrylate adhesives): BSI (Bob Smith):

• USE to repair broken furniture or ceramics, metal-to-metal bonding
• AVOID using on raw wood, plastics, and in very dry conditions
• We like the BSI glue best: it doesn't become brittle with age, and stays set. It resists hardening in the bottle better than most CA glues.
• Un-Cure, an acetone based solvent is the best way to remove CA glues.
• HINT: to keep your opened tube or bottles of CA glue from hardening, store in the freezer!

YES! Glue:

• A water-soluble glue with vaseline consistency
• USE: All wallpapers (including pre-pasted), carpeting, ceiling papers
• AVOID: Everything else!

Mini-Hold: (the waxy stuff):

• USE to hold round wire in the routed grooves when wiring.
• Good for adhering porcelain and teeny tiny objects in place.
• Will not stain finishes or dry out.
• Some brands are harder than others; much is personal preference.

Blue-Tack:

• a putty-like pressure sensitive adhesive
• best for pictures or things on wall
• may leave an oily stain wall

Temporary Glue: Moveable Miniature Glue:

• Allows for movement of miniatures, but holds well in case of jarring or shaking.
• Water based, non-toxic, may be removed with alcohol.
• Dries glossy, so may be noticeable.
• Best used with multiple coats (3), applied when the previous coat dries.
• May not stick porcelains well.
• AVOID: using on uneven surfaces, with heavy items, or on carpet.

Gloop:

• USE for attaching plastic sheets of brick, rock, tile, etc. to floors, walls, foundations. Excellent for non-flat surfaces.
• Water cleanup when it s wet, but tough to clean up after it s dry!